The Cetus also uses an external power brick, for which I was now also missing the connector because it was on the old mainboard. I went with the clean route and designed a simple adapter board in KiCAD where I broke-out the 16-pin cable to a bunch of JST and screw connectors. As much as this makes part of the clean look of the machine, as much made this interfacing everything on the extruder harder. The challenge was that the CETUS uses a 16-pin ribbon cable as a wire harness. Here, I ripped out the old control board and was tasked with putting in a new one. In my opinion, the implementation is not as good yet as in Klipper but already offers frequency calibration with accelerometers, and I'm sure it will improve in the future!īut let's get back to my CETUS. And before people start screaming: "But Klipper!!!!" ReparapFirmware even started implementing Input Shaping over the last releases which can reduce ghosting on prints significantly, especially when printing fast. Speaking of firmware – RepRapFirmware offers basically anything you might also know from Marlin, even with more recent features like Linear Advance and Mesh Bed Leveling. Since RepRapFirmware is purely configured via Gcode in a config file, you don't even have to mess around compiling your own firmware. The WiFi module, together with DuetWebControl, is excellent to use. Dedicated fan headers will allow you to reduce noise in idle because you can turn the hotend cooling fan off whenever the heater is below a specific temperature. Better Microstepping eliminates salmon skin on prints and will improve accuracy and quality. A recent RepRapFirmware mainboard like the DUET Mini or the Mellow FLY will come with TMC2209 drivers that have proper Microstepping and can work almost silently. Though if you have a machine that's just not working properly due to the electronics and firmware but is mechanically solid, such a conversion might make an old machine perform really nicely again. That doesn't require any firmware configuration is the easiest to implement and objectively the best solution in such a case. My conversion from a proprietary mainboard to the Mellow Fly RRF worked great, and I regret nothing because everything is better, but what can you expect if you're thinking about putting such a new mainboard in one of your machines? Well, first, if you've got a printer that works and you're only looking for WiFi connectivity, just add Octoprint. Preferably my adapter board (soldering iron required)Ī cartridge thermistor (video comments suggest the CETUS uses a PT100 so the stock thermistor might be compatible with the Mellow boards) Prerequisites for the CETUS Mellow FLY conversion Despite the name, they are just as well usable for most other 3D printers. There's an active Discord channel and a Facebook group around the Mellow Fly boards, and the Duet forum is excellent if you're looking for input on firmware configuration. Team Gloomy, responsible for the RepRap firmware port, has a great guide to perform precisely this Ender-3 conversion. The boards are called MELLOW Fly E3 because they're meant as a drop-in replacement for Ender-3s with compatible JST connector sockets and the same hole pattern. They are running powerful STM32 microprocessors for RepRapFirmware, have integrated WiFi with an external antenna, and plenty of IO-ports for fans, thermistors, sensors, and different types of screens. There are two versions of it: the normal E3, which I also used and has replaceable stepper drivers, and the newer E3 Pro version has integrated and five instead of four TMC2209 stepper motor drivers with additional improvements. Simply put, the Mellow FLY RRF seems to be a cheaper version of the popular DUET 3 Mini 5+ because it sells for only around $60. If you are using high temperature filaments, replace S230 with the appropriate temperature.Let's talk about the mainboard I used. To use it after the gcode is saved to a file, open it in a text editor, replace all occurrences of M600 with below gcode. I have been getting good results with this (see this print). SO I came up with a G Code which will allow us to swap filament. Idea is you will use the LCD controls to swap filament, and hit result ( M601) and printer will go on.īut Cetus without a LCD screen to manipulate, after pausing we don't have a way to swap the filament. It adds M600 at those layers in between infill so that outside does not show any artifact. (You click on the + mark in layer preview). Slic3r (I use derived Prusa Slicer) allows you to swap filaments at specific layers. If you are using Tinyfab CPU then you have an option to swap the filament to use the same single extruder to produce multi color prints. However you don't have much control on where the new color comes, and how it looks. Simple way to produce the multi color prints is to cut the filament while its printing at some level, and feed the new filament.
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